interviews: Nina Vaclavikova
A recent dispute between local beachgoers and visiting tourists has once again drawn attention to one of Trieste’s most unusual institutions: the Pedocin, a public beach where a wall still separates men and women.
Officially known as Bagno Marino La Lanterna, the beach has maintained the division for more than a century. While similar arrangements once existed across parts of Europe, Pedocin is widely believed to be the last remaining beach on the continent where male and female bathing areas remain permanently separated by a physical barrier.
The issue resurfaced this week after an argument reportedly broke out when a tourist entered the men’s section and was asked by a local resident to respect the beach’s rules. The disagreement escalated before staff intervened, reigniting a debate that has followed the beach for decades: Is Pedocin a cherished cultural tradition or an outdated relic of another era?
For many Triestini, the answer is straightforward.
Built in 1903, when Trieste was still part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the beach has survived world wars, political upheaval and changing social norms. The wall itself has become a symbol of continuity in a city whose identity has long been shaped by shifting borders and cultures.
Unlike gender segregation imposed elsewhere, the division at Pedocin is voluntary. Families, couples and groups can choose which side to use, and many regular visitors say they value the atmosphere the arrangement creates. On the women’s side, generations of families often gather together, while the men’s side has its own long-established community of regulars.
Curious about how the tradition is viewed today, we visited the beach and spoke with bathers on both sides of the wall.
Most expressed support for preserving the division, describing it as a distinctive part of Trieste’s heritage rather than a restriction. Several said they appreciated the sense of privacy and familiarity it provides.
“It’s our tradition,” said one woman who has been coming to the beach since childhood. “People from outside sometimes don’t understand it, but nobody is forced to be here.”
Others acknowledged that first-time visitors are often surprised by the arrangement. Yet even some younger beachgoers said they viewed the wall less as a symbol of separation than as a local curiosity that sets Trieste apart.
Not everyone agrees. Critics argue that the beach reflects social conventions that belong to another century and question whether a publicly operated facility should maintain a gender-based division.
For now, however, the wall remains firmly in place, as does the affection many residents feel for it.
On a recent summer afternoon, children played along the shoreline, pensioners exchanged greetings with neighbors and families settled into their usual spots. Beyond the debate, life at the Pedocin continued much as it has for generations — on either side of the wall.
