Villa Moore known as Borahall

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By Alessandra Ressa

In via Bazzoni #15, hidden by a high wall covered in thick ivy, sits a magnificent 1700s mansion that once belonged to a rich Scottish merchant, Sir George Moore; he was also the American Consul in Trieste. Built when San Vito hill was almost unspoilt, with its woods, farmlands, tiny peasants’ houses (none of which remain today), and open view of the sea, it was known  as “Borahall” — the house of Bora.

If you’ve lived in Trieste long enough to have experienced Bora, the powerful wind that mercilessly sweeps every corner of town with its whistling gusts that can reach up to 170 kph, you should probably know that most houses in Trieste are built to avoid direct exposure, that is to the North North-East.

When Moore bought the house in 1833 and proceeded with grand extensions and renovations, he probably wasn’t aware of this Trieste peculiarity. The house was positioned right in the path of the wind, which blew violently against the front entrance causing loud howling, and even a slight shaking of the walls.

Rather than being disappointed, the Scot quickly began to enjoy the Bora wrestling his mansion. He soon named it Borahall and proudly made his many distinguished guests share the thrill of the Bora in his house.

George Moore moved from Scotland to Trieste soon after Napoleon’s defeat in 1814. Being a merchant, he was attracted by its Austrian port and the great new trading opportunities it offered to international businessmen. He was a wealthy, eccentric, handsome 34-years old widower and soon became very popular in Trieste’s high society. Ladies adored his straightforwardness, and although a gentleman, did not excel in etiquette.

Business competitors hated him for his ruthlessness in handling his trades. He literally bought and sold everything, ensuring his goods reached even the most remote areas of the empire, which had been deprived by years of conflict and poverty.

He quickly became very influential. At the apex of his career he was nominated Unites States Consul of Trieste. Like many British citizens at the time, he not only contributed to the town’s economic growth, but generously supported several social initiatives to help the less fortunate. He also financially helped the Teatro Nuovo (today’s Verdi Theatre) and where he never missed a performance from his central box.

He was particularly fond of San Vito, its nature, and the gorgeous views over the gulf. Borahall soon became the place to be for Trieste’s high society. Its international parties, which attracted most of the influential expat community of the time, were the talk of the town; its intellectual meetings and events shaped Trieste’s cultural life. Guests at Borahall often described these notorious parties in letters to friends and family. They were particularly fascinated by the high medieval-style walls surrounding the building with their romantic battlements all around. This was Moore’s eclectic idea to hide from view the peasants’ houses around the villa, while allowing an open view of the sea.

The park surrounding the mansion was a joy to the eye, with its secular trees and rare plants. An ancient stone fountain with an enigmatic dolphin (not dissimilar to the one in via Crispi, see article) stood among the vegetation.

In the dining hall two giant portraits of Horatio Nelson and the Duke of Wellington dominated the scene to remind guests of the nationality of their host. Admiral Nelson, according to witnesses of the time, actually visited Moore at Borahall (years before being mortally wounded at Trafalgar), and took part in several social events. According to some guests, following the victories at Trafalgar and Waterloo, Moore had yet another legendary party and celebrated the two military leaders with a ceremony where he had laurel wreaths placed on their portraits.

To the disappointment of Triestino bachelorettes, Moore never remarried. He did however have a much rumoured affair with attractive 35-year old Emma Lyon, well known not only for her long-term experience in high society brothels, but for her later relationship with Admiral Nelson until his death.

Emma Lyon’s beauty inspired many great artists and painters, and her libertine lifestyle allowed her to lead a comfortable life. Like many Bohemian heroines of the time, however, and after Nelson’s death, she became an alcoholic, dilapidated all the money and property given her by rich lovers and eventually died poor of liver failure.

After Moore’s death in 1874, Borahall was rented to the Slataper family and became the birthplace of famous writer Scipio, a much beloved naturalist whose book “Il Mio Carso” (an English translation is available as My Karst) is still very popular today. It was in this house that Slataper wrote the book and a stone plaque at the villa entrance proudly reminds us of that.

Today, although not much is left of its original splendour, Borahall stands in solitary confinement in all its mysterious beauty, hidden from the world by its high walls. It has been privately owned by a Trieste family for almost a century and made into an exclusive holiday destination

Although you can’t visit it as a day tourist, you can treat yourself to a magnificent stay. Managed by two ladies of the family, who also live there, it offers a B&B (Villa Moore) experience with spacious rooms, and a full two-bedroom apartment (Borahall). The accommodations are managed independently from one another and you can find them through the dedicated online websites. If you do stay at Borahall, make the best of it and check the weather forecast for a windy Bora day!

Do not expect, however, to step back in time. As you can probably guess from the outside, much of its park has been sold through the years, and little remains of its famous luscious garden. Only a couple of old trees are left, one in particular, a horse chestnut that Scipio Slataper loved to climb as a child.

The mansion is, however, still a jewel. Unfortunately, it is now surrounded by horrendous 1970s tall buildings, and no walls could hide their ugliness. Although now partially blocked, you can still enjoy an inspiring sea view from the house. All the original furniture and paintings are gone, the owners explained, but we had the feeling the place still retains some of its magic.