By Alessandra Ressa
How much courage or recklessness do you need to leave a comfortable life and secure career and move to the mountains to spend your life with birds of prey?
It sounds like a National Geographic’s documentary about a remote part of the world, but you don’t need to go very far to learn the story of this very special protagonist.
This is the story of Laura Penza, a former training lawyer in one of the most prominent law firms in Trieste.
Her job meant a secure and remunerative career ahead, a comfortable life in an affluent town and the approval of her family. However, Laura felt her life wasn’t fulfilling enough as her dream was to train the birds of prey – owls, buzzards, eagles, and hawks. While handling cases in court, she managed to graduate from a falconry school.
Laura felt that she could have a career in falconry and share her passion with others, so she left Trieste, found a three-century old mountain stable on Monte (Mount) Prat, in Friuli, renovated it and made it her home. She then rebuilt an old barn next to it, and opened the first and only falconry school in Friuli Venezia Giulia.
There are only two female falcon trainers in Italy and Laura is one of them. Her school has nothing to do with hunting but belongs to the Italian falconry sports league, which offers falcon training for the pleasure of sharing time with the beautiful and gentle birds of prey. During the courses, which are held on weekends only, you learn to train the birds to trust you, to fly on your command, and much more. These are difficult skills to achieve, Laura explains, but the fulfillment is immeasurable.
Laura’s school is called Ali nella Notte (Night wings) and all the flying creatures are invaluable in every sense. They come from the North and South America and Asia, some are rare and very fragile, all are extremely sensitive and gentle. There are currently five trained birds: a tawny owl, an eagle owl, two scops owls and an owl with glasses. The newest arrival, a North American buzzard, is still being trained.
Training these birds of prey is hard work. It takes over one hundred days of imprinting and several months of taming, so that activities with people who have never had any contact with these type of animals are possible in complete safety.
Ali nella Notte is not just a sport falconry school. Falconer Laura Penza works with schools and disabled people. Just like pet therapy, contact with these birds is believed to have beneficial effects.
Laura and her team organize half a day excursions open to anyone, during which you get to walk in the beautiful Monte Prat wood trails while carrying a bird of pray on your hand (you will be wearing a leather glove, do not fear). After a short introduction, where you will get to know a little about these beautiful creatures – their story, characteristics and special skills – you will literally be chosen by one of them. Each has its own peculiar personality, and there will surely be one to match yours. You will then follow Laura into the woods for two hours to learn about the birds and the territory. Reservations are mandatory as maximum five people can participate.
It’s a unique experience to walk with one of these birds on your hand. When they feel comfortable and reassured near you, they will go as far as rubbing themselves on your neck, or gently pecking your cheek, which is their way of kissing! The little ones will confidently stand on your shoulder and even on your head.
It takes approximately 1.5 hours to get from Trieste to Monte Prat and it is definitely worth a visit. Although there isn’t a proper village at the top (only six people live on Monte Prat full time) the natural beauty of the place will astound you.
From the top of this mountain, only 850 meters above sea level, you can enjoy breathtaking views of the whole region, from the Tagliamento river all the way to the sea. On the other side, you can enjoy the magnificence of the Friuli Alps.
If you are lucky you may see griffon vultures circling up above as there is quite a large protected colony of them in this area.
On Monte Prat there are approximately 50 kilometers of old mule tracks that locals before WWII used as shortcuts to move about. After the war most of the population migrated to France, Belgium and Canada.
If you decide to visit Monte Prat you should definitely try the specialties of the area at agriturismo Verde Friuli, just across the street from the falconry school. It offers the best home made meals (with home made ingredients), reasonably priced. Try frico (cheese and potato omelet) and pierogi (dumplings filled with cheese). It is currently open on weekends only. Not only can you taste the excellent dishes from the local cuisine, but, if the weather is good, you can ask to be seated outside on the terrace to enjoy breathtaking views of the valley below.
